What is most striking today about Jerusalem is the rush of development that has followed the relative calm after the Lebanese conflict almost 2 years ago. The Old City is undergoing renovations and excavations as seen above. The authorities took down the police station that overlooked the Wall to excavate the old structures underneath.Outside the walls, Yad Veshem has completed the most breathtaking renovation I have ever seen in a museum. Before, I thought it was gripping to walk through because you could not look away from the holocaust imagery, but that reached a saturation point pretty fast. Now, the weaving of taped interviews and documentary clips evenly balances the artifacts and photos, so that you can stay in longer and get more depth without simply experiencing the shock.
Deep in the city, there is a light rail going in, luxury apartment foundations being poured and a bubbling tourism apparently revolving around Birthright, or at least getting the heck out of its way.
The security situation has improved to the point where folks are back in the Arab shuk in the Old City. I haven't been there in nearly 14 years. What a treat. Yeah, something about being there can bring out the right wingishness in even the staunchest lefty.
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