Back to J'lem, December 28-30

Those unfamiliar with Israel asked RSC to take photos depicting life there. Given the varied terrain in Israel, as well as the variety of cultures and ethnicities, that's tough. Toss in an ever-changing military/political landscape and it is damn-near impossible.

Here is something simple: How close are Arabs and Israelis really? Really, really close. This is a shot looking north from Givat Hatachmoshet - Ammunition Hill. It is the former base of the Jordanian Arab legion and sits about 15 minutes walk from the Old City. On the hill, there is a memorial to the battle for Jerusalem in 1967, and you can still wander through the trenches and bunkers. Looking off the hill at the top, you get a view of just how close things really are. This is a view of a small village about 1 km away from Ramallah. Close, huh?

Wait until tomorrow, when you'll hear about the area south of Jerusalem, where the roads are bordered by large concrete walls to prevent attack, or about the Lebanese border, where military outposts, radar and listening stations abut a scuba operation, ATV trails, and a cable car into gorgeous chalk grottoes by the sea. Yup, that close.

Luckily, things have calmed down for a bit. This is a view from inside the Arab shuk. The traffic is much higher now that Israelis of all types feel that it is safe to come back into these streets. That means non-Jewish tourists are back too, hanging a left into the Arab quarter in greater and greater numbers. I know, I and all the other Israelis have seen them in a quick leftward glance down the still-forbidden streets.

Weird place, I know.